Upgraded Mounts Q&A

, by Kevin Harnischfeger, 5 min reading time

I guess to start, it's important to understand why you would want or need upgraded motor mounts...

Your OEM motor mounts aren't bad, they were just designed with compromise in mind, just as all OEM parts typically are. The compromise here is between NVH and performance available from Honda's choice of bushing.

What is NVH?

Noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH) are the noises and physical forces you feel in the cabin as a result of the various parts of your car - everything from your choice in motor mount, endlinks, coilover top hats (and many more) all contribute to experienced NVH whenever you drive your car.

Remember the compromise talk just before?

Sure Honda could have cranked up the "stiffness" on a lot of factory components (including your motor mounts)...

But it would lead to the average enthusiast having something a little "too edgy" from the factory. Thus OEMs compromise on absolute performance in favor of comfort and decreasing NVH, in some capacity. All manufactures must do this, on a sliding scale of where they are emphasizing inputs and outputs of the driving experience.

Here is where an upgrade like Hasport mounts come into play really nicely for an enthusiast looking for an extra edge while knowing they will get some more NVH along the way.

The other end of that OEM compromise is how much movement and slop the mounts will allow to be exerted in the drivetrain at any given moment.

Ever notice how some 3" downpipe setups rattle with a factory rear mount?

Or have you noticed that with more power, you get more wheel hop off the line, where the front end feels like its almost "skipping?"

Or have you noticed that under harsh driving and shifting... it almost feels like the drivetrain isn't "staying put."

These are all results of that compromise towards softer NVH... and thus more flex and slop allowed for with the OEM bushing durometer spec.

Now for the enthusiast who has gotten this far, there are some common questions.

Q: Will my car turn into a rattle box?
A: Not with 62a or 70a durometer, and not with just a rear upgraded especially.

Q: Is 62a "way stiffer" than stock?
A: Stiff enough to notice an appreciable performance increase, not "stuff enough" to make your car unpleasant.

Q: Is the rear mount hard to install?
A: Not at all... jack up the car, support your motor, and swap in your new rear mount!

Q: Should I also get the upper pitch mount?
A: Its super easy to install right in the engine bay, helps with motor flex paired with an upgraded rear. If you have the extra $140, it might be worth a second look. Majority of your benefit will come from the rear mount on 9th gens.

Q: When during my build should I upgrade my rear motor mount (or other mounts)?
A: Typically its recommended to upgrade your rear mount when you install a larger downpipe than stock. Other than that, its a great modification for someone wanting to stiff up their powertrain flex.

Q: What about the "full" mount kit?
A: Lots of our bigger builds go for these... not required at all for the typical bolt on setup or even mild boost. Guys buying these are either really trying to lock down drivetrain movement OR their power levels are really necessitating of the upgrade OR its someone who wants to have "it all" for an attention to detail build (the two upgraded mounts in the engine bay look great!)

Q: What durometer is right for me?
62a: You want an upgrade from stock, want to limit any increase in NVH.
70a. You want a little more "edge" over the 62a... without getting into "harsh" NVH territory
88a: You have a high power build/performance over NVH concerns/track frequently
94a: You basically want solid mounts, also the inserts are red to distinguish the "race only" durometer, looks awesome!
Solid: Self-explanitory

If you're wondering what the dispersion is in durometer selection among 9th gen enthusiasts, we can share some guidance from what we've seen with our customers over the last decade.

Almost half go with 62a. Another "almost half" go with 70a. The remaining 10% would be split among 88a, 94a, and solid... but basically the stiffer you go, the less that sell.

And that is kind of the point. Just because you're upgrading your motor mounts, doesn't mean you need to sacrifice all of your comfort and have unbearable NVH. You can really tailor the feel and outcome with durometer selection.

Most enthusiasts we've worked with go with the softer durometer options (62a, 70a) and love it.

For the few hard core guys... the 88a, 94a and solid variants are always available to them. And at that durometer selection, you know what you're getting into.

And after reading this thread, some people may realize they're happy with their OEM mounts after all.


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